Brought to you by SwedishDiesel Premium Fuel Productsᵗᵐ

We are very timely with our publications, do not fret. Just ignore the fact that this follow-up article was posted well over a year after the first part…

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For legal reasons, MSIMA, SwedishDiesel Group and EZ Pour Spouts do NOT condone bypassing applicable EPA, CARB and safety regulations.

This HIGHYL DETAILED visual is NOT a “how-to”, but rather a DEMONSTRATION of how DANGEROUS criminals ILLEGALLY modify their fuel containers to INCREASE the FLOW of FUEL, putting themselves, their equipment, and their surrounding environment AT RISK. This should NEVER be done under ANY circumstances.

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I am fueled by enough caffeine to kill a small nation.

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Step 1: Delete

Take off the old spout and throw that godforsaken contraption in the garbage. I wouldn’t even recycle those things.

The springs and fuel-resistant O-rings are good parts, so harvest and save those for other projects more worthy of them.

Step 2: Determine Base Color

Go to www.ezpourspout.com and determine which spout base is needed. Generally, gas cans use two different thread pitches, and as such EZ Pour has 2 different bases included in every order. As our focus today is on newer post-emission gas cans, a comprehensive fitment guide for older containers can be found on EZ Pour’s website. 

Scepter cans require the yellow base, included in every spout order. No-Spill cans require an adapter, and then the yellow base can be used.

However, there is a third thread pitch used by newer Briggs & Stratton/GarageBoss/Wedco gas cans, as well as Midwest Cans (in spite of the chart on their website – the grey base fits better).

If you use a FuelWorx which somehow hasn’t exploded, you’re out of luck. Time to get creative. Though I’ve seen people use hose claps and hydraulic hose, so perhaps some modifications are in order.

Step 3: Accessories

After determining which base to use, order a spout and any necessary adapters or desired add-ons.

If pesky arbitrary restrictions prevent shipping to your state, check Ebay or Amazon for knockoff spouts. This is the only time I will vouch for these scumbags.

Psst…you can also order a UK petrol can too, there’s no safety spouts on them.

Step 4: Commence The Tooth Pulling

Pull out the spark arrestor, and be prepared for a fight. Use a small flathead screwdriver to get under it, and get needle nose pliers in there. Grab, twist, curse profusely, wiggle and pull that thing out. Be careful not to distort the filler neck or else the spout won’t seal properly.

Try not to sock yourself in the nose like I just did either.

Also try not to push it into the gas can either, it will never ever come out if you do. This isn’t typically an issue when it happens, but it can potentially restrict flow.

Step 5: Optional Tuning

Install the vent that comes with the EZ-pour kit, following the instructions that came with. You can omit this step, but it won’t pour as fast (though still better than the original spout). Sweden boy recommends using a bit of fuel-resistant sealer to prevent vapors from leaking through the edge of the vent.

EZ Pour recommends using their reamer tool rather than a drill bit. If you do use a drill bit, put some grease on it to catch any plastic shavings. Make sure you drill straight and make a completely circular hole. 

Also make sure the can is empty, dry and free of fuel vapors. Don’t blow yourself up, I don’t feel like doing more paperwork right now. Dumb shit with gas cans is what got us into this regulatory mess in the first place dammit.

Step 6: Optional Debadge

Step 7: Dispense Fuel

Enjoy your actually-functional fuel container. For how much these damned things cost, they really ought to work better from the factory. 

Now if you’ll excuse me, I have to take shelter from the EPA trying to take me out via air strike.